DOG SWEATER by Leila Simonsen http://www.nataliesknitting.com

First the general idea in order to convert to a different size, different yarn, different patterning, or to hand knit. Scroll down for actual pattern by Leila in Japanese standard machine, or Passap version.

Draw out a rectangle on a paper. You can make it life size if you want! Then you can lay your knitting on it as you go to see how you are doing. Measure your dog from where you want the sweater to end near his tail, to the top of his neck. Leila has a doubled over turtle neck, if you want to work that extra length into it. That's the long end of the rectangle. Now put that measurement on your paper diagram. Measure around the dogs chest behind his legs. That's the short width of the rectangle. Write that measurement on your diagram. The middle of this rectangle is the top of the dog's back. The seam will be under his neck and belly.

Note: I found that I didn't have to make the sweater shorter for my boy dog's pee area. I just didn't seam the belly on the last section before his pee area (I'm being so discrete, huh?) The 3X3 rib does draw in, but the 1X1 rib at the back edge keeps it flared out over the back of the dog just fine.

Now make leg holes on your diagram. When you make the leg holes there will be slits closer to the sides of the rectangle than the middle. Just a short space between legs, but longer space over the dogs back. The leg opening ends up somewhere in the middle of this sweater when it's flat, if you have made it a turtle neck instead of a mock turtle. So, in the middle of the rectangle draw a vertical slit near each outer edge. I would guess if you drew a center dotted line down the length of the rectangle, then divided each half of the width you created into 3rds, then the slits should sit around the outer 1/3 area, and be about 2 inches long. The hole is actually long on my sweater, but any rib more than 1X1 will draw in a lot. This means if your hole is extra long, your "sleeve" will draw in, anyway. So, it won't be a problem if you are worried the hole is too big, because it draws in around the leg. A hole too small would be hard for the doggie to move.

Now for the leg hole slits. Measure from back end of the sweater (where you want it to end) to a little behind his front legs. That's where you will want to put the outside stitches on a holder to split the knitting into 3 sections. Knitting the main section of the sweater, then pick up and knit each outside edges of the sweater, and make it as long up to the point where you want the leg holes to stop. Leila has in her pattern that the outside pieces are a "tad" longer to accommodate the deeper chest. You could get away without doing this if you really wanted to.

Ok, now you should have all your measurements and placement (and length) of the leg opening slits on your diagram. With measurements written down. Or, life-size diagram if you like. The leg openings are about half way up the rectangle for the long fold over turtle neck, as in the pattern.

The actual pattern: Liela uses a 1X1 rib for one inch at the back of the sweater, and a 3X3 rib in the body and neck of the sweater. So make a swatch and decide your gauge. Decide how many stitches and rows you need to make your width and length. If you make a swatch you can decide how much you want it to stretch around the dog, because the rib stretches a lot. My finished tube is only about 3 inches before I stretch it around the dog. It would stretch for a dog bigger than mine.

Cast on enough stitches to make your width and make one inch of 1X1 rib, then change to 3X3 rib (I used 4X4 rib). Knit along until you get to the leg slits opening area. Put each outer edge stitches on holders (it was 15 stitches for each outer edge for Leila's pattern in 4 ply yarn on standard gauge machine). Knit the 3 sections you have divided into separately until they are as long as your leg slits should be. Then connect your knitting all across again, and knit up to the end of the neck. Sew the neck and belly with matrice stitch. Pick up around the leg opening slit with double pointed needles and work circular, in pattern, as long as you want the "sleeve". Then your done. I used 0000 double pointed needles to match the gauge Leila gave in 4 ply sock yarn for design and warmth.

DOG SWEATER

Yarn - About a fine 4 ply. (Natalie used Lane Cervenia, Regia, or Opal sock yarn--50gm ball, or more) Trenzado at a higher tension, say 4 & 7 might make a Standard Doxy size.

Machine - Brother Standard Gauge

Note: The side sections are longer to accommodate the curve of the chest. The seam is going to be under the tummy. The rib makes it fit snugly on any size dog from about 15" chest to 17" or 18". Originally planned for miniature dachshound--you may not want so long a neck. If you can't HK the legs, you can put the 7 stitches on the machine, transfer to every other needle rib, e-wrap on the stitches instead of picking them up and knit them, in rib, of course. I like to maintain the main rib as below: also doing this with the leg ribbing. picking up enough stitches to have that knit stitch at each side for seaming, if you are doing it on the machine.

Cast on - Beginning at tail edge. Zig-zag cast on 115 stitches in 1/1 rib. Knit 10 rows at tension 3, having knit stitch at each end.

Transfer to 3/3 rib, by moving every other ribber stitch up to main bed, every other main bed stitch down to ribber. Increase 1 stitch at each end of main bed, so as to have 2 knit stitches at each end for seam.

Body of sweater: Change gradually to tension 6 (2 clicks at a time), knit 60 (maybe only 50 for male dog--Natalie did 60, but didn't seam the last 1/2 of belly section for a boy) rows in 3/3 rib. This is the place to add or subtract rows for length of body. If your dog is short bodied or long, add or subtract length here.

Leg holes: Put all except 15 stitches at carriage side in hold position. Remember to put BOTH carriages into hold! Put into waste yarn (just gather them onto a strand with transfer needle) next 7 stitches (for leg hole) and hang claw weights on the 15 edge stitches. Knit 30 rows, continuing in same rib pattern, on the edge stitches. Put these stitches onto hold position (Natalie's note-Or, ravel cord and waste yarn). Break yarn. Put 15 edge stitches at the opposite end back into working position, put 7 stitches (for leg hole) next to them on waste yarn, and knit 30 rows on the 15 stitches. Break yarn, put these 15 stitches onto hold (Natalie's note- or, ravel cord and waste yarn).

Place center 70 stitches back into working position and knit 26 rows.

(Natalie's Note--now leg holes are finished, and the 3 sections must be put back together for the remainder of the sweater.)

Upper Chest and Neck: Transfer the ribber stitches of the side pieces onto main bed and using 24-stitch transfer tools (you do have a pair of these, I hope), move these over to overlap the center piece, so as to keep rib pattern even, making one piece again, and transfer appropriate stitches to ribber. (Natalie used a small garter bar to transfer the stitches, or you could take off on ravel cord and scrap, and rehang them) Knit 15 rows at tension 6, 15 rows at 5.2, 15 rows at 5.1, 20 rows at tension 5. Bind off in rib. Mattress stitch the center seam.

Leg sleeves: Now I hope you are able to do a small amount of hand knitting. Pick up the 7 stitches on waste yarn with a sock needle, pick up 22 stitches on the side with the narrow piece (outside edge piece), knit them back to the 7 stitches, knit across them in 1/1 rib and pick up 18 stitches from the center section. Keeping the 1/1 rib even, knit circular (on 4 double pointed needles). 10 rows, or more if you like for a longer "sleeve". Bind off in rib. Repeat with the other 7 stitches on waste yarn.

Passap Version

Yarn would be the same as for Japanese Machines. Stitch size 4 for the 1/1 rib at the beginning. Knitting technique 115BX<-->/LX. Having the pushers in work allows short rows on both beds. Using orange strippers.

Cast on 1 for 1/1 rib 115 stitches. Transfer end stitches so that there is 2 stitches on the front bed at each end. Knit 10 rows.

Transfer stitches to make a 3/3 rib, adding a stitch to each side on the front bed in order to have stitches for seaming. Change tensions every 2 rows by 2 clicks at a time until you reach tension 5.5. Knit a total of 50 rows for a male dog, or 60 for a female. (Natalie did 60, but didn't seam the last half of the body of the sweater for a boy) This is the place to add or subtract rows for length of body. If your dog is short bodied or long, add or subtract length here.

Take all pushers out of work on both beds except for 15 on the side with the lock. Remove the next 7 stitches from the beds onto a piece of waste yarn. Work 30 rows on the 15 stitches using a claw weight if necessary. Break yarn and move lock to the other side of the bed using GX/GX. Repeat, putting all pushers out of work except for the 15 on this side of the bed. Remove the next 7 stitches onto waste yarn. Again, knit 30 rows over these 15 stitches.

Move both sides in 7 stitches so they form a complete piece again with the center stitches. This may be accomplished best by moving all to one bed, Then moving them over on a long transfer tool. Then transfer stitches to maintain the rib pattern. Be careful that the stitches are transferred to the same bed they were on in the beginning. Knit 15 rows at T 5.5, 15 rows at T5, and 20 rows at 4. Bind off in rib.

The holes left by the 7 stitches taken off on each side are for the leg openings. Cast on 25 stitches in 1/1 rib. Knit 10 rows. Bind off or take off on waste yarn. Make 2 pieces alike. If you would like longer "sleeves" for your friend, make them longer. These will be sewn together and attached, or grafted to the openings.

Finishing: sew the center seam with a mattress stitch. Graft or attach the finished leg cuffs to the leg openings.